Fukuoka, a city that often escapes the limelight in favor of Japan’s more famous urban centres like Tokyo and Osaka, holds its own charm that many travellers unfortunately overlook. But this is not just another city. It is a place where the unique Yatai culture thrives, setting it apart from its more popular counterparts.

As the sun sets on the bustling districts of Nakasu and Tenjin, a transformation occurs. The streets, alive with the typical hustle and bustle of a Japanese city during the day, reveal a hidden charm as evening approaches. Yatai, which are either absent or barely noticed by passers-by during the day, now emerge with the warm glow of lanterns, transforming into hubs of gastronomic adventure. These mobile stalls offer a variety of mouth-watering street food, creating a sight to behold and an experience that, while not exclusive to Fukuoka, finds its highest exponent here.

The Yatai culture is more than just about food. It’s about the unwritten rules and the bonds that form in these compact spaces. While most people consider impolite to linger after your meal — given the long queues waiting for a taste of this authentic experience — the close quarters naturally spark conversations and shared stories, which can lead to unexpected friendships. 

In the heart of this Yatai culture stands Genkai. This venerable Yatai, over 70 years old, is the second oldest in Japan and is lovingly operated by a delightful couple known for their exquisite tempura. Memories of a previous visit with friends compelled me to revisit this culinary landmark on my return to Fukuoka. The joy of rediscovering Genkai was akin to reuniting with an old friend.

Fukuoka may not boast the fame of Tokyo or Osaka, but it offers a warmth and vibrancy found in the smiles of Yatai owners and the chatter of diners. It’s a city that deserves a spot on every traveler’s itinerary, not just for its food but for the stories and connections that you’ll cherish long after the journey ends.